I lived in Paris for a few years as a student and then kept coming back regularly whilst working in London… it’s definitely my favourite city in the world. I have so many memories and favourite places in Paris. I remember, before becoming parents, Hubby Dearest and I would often go there for a week-end away from London and I always made a point of bringing back some of my favourite French goodies, from silk scarves to tea perfumed jelly, and delicate eau de toilette…
I have a few must areas: Saint-Germain, Passy, Le Marais, and Rue Saint-Honoré are top of my list, and if I can avoid it I never step anywhere near the Champs-Elysées, which is merely a tourist trap in my book. With children, our Parisian escapades became a little more rare and more focused around activities that our munchkins enjoy (the playgrounds at the Luxembourg, the Louvre etc), and now that we live on the other side of the world we don’t get to visit as frequently… but when we do, I always manage to visit my favourite boutiques around all the lovely neighbourhoods. Take it from me, when visiting Paris, forget about the souvenirs Made in China, and bring back some of these instead…
French teas and delicacies
I know when people think Paris delicacies they automatically think Ladurée macarons but I find macarons a little too sweet to really enjoy themand they don’t age well, so you need to eat them within days of purchasing them… I prefer more durable souvenirs, especially if I am bringing them back to South Africa, however I do love Ladurée for hostess gifts and the packaging is so pretty.
What I always bring back, without fail, is tea from Mariage Frères, a French gourmet merchant, founded in Paris over 150 years ago. They have a few boutiques and tea rooms across Paris, but my favourite is the one in the Marais, it looks like a tea merchant’s house from the olden days… I love coming for brunch on a Sunday: you can only reserve for the first service, and the queue starts building fast from 1pm onwards, especially as there is no limitation in how long you get to sit, this isn’t like the places in London or New York where the host tells you you need to gobble your food in one hour to free it up for the next patrons… Here you get to eat at your pace and enjoy yourself. If there is time, I like to book for family brunch, the menu is filled with delicate dishes all thought out around tea, and they have the most delicious desserts, including the famous Coup de Soleil, a tart of summer berries topped with a creme brulee layer. Service is one of the best in the French city.
I then wander the shop floor before leaving, and make a little stock of all my favourites. Usually it goes like this: 100g of Russian Breakfast tea (great citrusy breakfast blend that also yummiest iced tea with a few slices of lemon and some agave nectar thrown in), 100g of Rose Himalaya tea (such a delicate darjeeling, my choice for cold afternoons), a couple of tea “chaussettes” (super soft cotton filters to infuse tea) and some muslin filters to use in the office, a tin or two of matcha powder, one jar of iced tea from the new collection (tea blends that work especially well for a cold brew and come in gorgeous glass jars, I love Panama) and finally, a jar of tea jelly, which is my favourite thing to spread on toasted challah. I know it’s odd to reference a French brand for tea, but the blends here are super delicate and the shopping experience is wonderful. I do shop for tea in London as well, but most places have lost the luxury feel for it these days.
I sometimes let myself be tempted by the beautiful tea-ware that comes in the most beautiful porcelain and glass (I have my eye on the Rumba glass teapot… maybe on my next visit), although I have to think about luggage allowance these days, so I try to not get carried away!
Artisan perfumes and my favourite candles
I know there are hundreds of new perfume launches each year, and yet I find most of them dish out the same type of boring scents: on the one side, heavy perfumes loaded with oud or patchouli, strong enough to give you a migraine before you’re out of Sephora, and on the other, chemical versions of someone’s memory of the beach (most of them remind me of the sea breeze option of bathroom cleansing gels…). I prefer classic artisan houses, and two of my favourites are Paris based. Firstly, L’Artisan Parfumeurto stock up on their Mûre et Musc Extrême perfume, a powdery and fruity mix that reminds me of the very first perfume my mother bought me when I was a teenager. The brand has a range of perfumes based on natural scents, and I love exploring the new collection each time I visit their shops, usually in the Marais or in Saint-Germain. If I’m on rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (and the odds are I will be at some point…) I do a little detour by Annick Goutal, where I come to stock up on Petite Chérie, a fruity floral which makes me smile every single time I spray it, and the old-style bottles look absolutely gorgeous, I love to have a few standing next to each other (the new ones, not so much, but now I mainly buy the refills, which are also lighter to carry in luggage).
No trip to Paris would be complete without a stop by Diptyque to purchase a couple of über chic candles, which look beautiful but most importantly smell amazing: scents are carefully composed, with bouquets inspired by nature, childhood memories or travel impressions. My favourites? Baies, Genevrier, and Feu de Bois, but I have many more that I am slightly obsessed with, usually from their classic collection, I rarely find one from the special collections that I really love. Remember, once you’ve burned out the candle you should clean out the glass to make a beautiful pot for beauty brushes, pencils, or flowers. I do it with every single candle, from the tiny ones to the giant ones.
French luxe
Being in Paris means I get to enjoy a few visits to my favourite luxe houses, starting, of course, with Hermès. I enjoy the flagship at 24 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, but seeing as it’s part of the tourist circuit somewhat, I now prefer to shop in the Saint-Germain boutique or the George V one, which will always have a special place in my heart as it’s where I bought my very first Hermès bag. I come here because I love the intricate windows filled with one-off pieces (though they are not quite the same since Leila Menchari’s passing), and I love everything, from the bags to the tableware. I have dreamt many times of moving in permanently, or at least being allowed to stay overnight… I follow the seasonal collections, and arrive prepared with a wishlist, usually a GM shawl, maybe a small wallet, or a couple of cups.
For other brands, I tend to shop the duty free boutiques at the airports: Heathrow and Roissy are fantastic for Dior and Chanel in general, although some other brands are best found in town…
Everything under one beautiful roof
If I’m only in Paris for one day or less, I head straight to Le Bon Marché, my favourite department store in the city, which was founded in 1852 and holds the title of the oldest and longest-running department store in the world. This is my favourite one-stop shop, where I can find everything from books to lingerie, all under one gorgeous roof. I love coming here for a quick visit, I know I will find most of my favourite brands, both on the exclusive luxury front but also the new and emerging brands. Compared to Printemps and Galeries Lafayette, Le Bon Marché is more manageable in size and conducive to slower paced “promenades”, and its location is an added bonus: Saint-Germain is a much more pleasant neighbourhood than Les Grands Magasins of Boulevard Haussmann. The layout is simple, filled with light, and the store often hosts temporary exhibitions and partnerhips, making each visit a special one.
Right now it’s not possible for me to visit my favourite city… but I hope to be able to go soon, and to be sure I’ll visit all my favourite shops and restaurants (there’s an idea for a future post!) when I do.
With love, S.
A Styled Life 