Category: Johannesburg

Africa, Johannesburg

Rosemary Hill: cute little getaway from the city

by s.a.bLeave a Comment on Rosemary Hill: cute little getaway from the city

If the last fifteen months have taught me anything, it’s to be creative with week-end getaways and local escapades. It’s been hard not to be able to hop on a plane to London or Paris, but we have been luckier than most in South Africa, and there are so many lovely places to discover it almost doesn’t feel like travel has been restricted. Evidently, limited travel doesn’t mean that the school refrains from sending the children on “holidays” every six weeks, on the contrary! So keeping our two little minis busy and entertained has also been a full-time task lately. Alas we can’t go on safari or to the beach every week, so we mix those with getaways closer to the city, and finding Rosemary Hill and its adorable cabin cluster (CabinVille) so close to Johannesburg was a god-send.

Although Johannesburg feels like a giant forest and the winters here are lovely with the warm light and sunny afternoons, we sometimes miss a little bit of countryside, the kind that you would get from a trip to the Cotswolds or to Provence… It’s all a little urban at times. However, if you drive about an hour to the outskirts of Pretoria, you will find the most lovely farm now revamped into a wedding venue cum B&B. The farm offers more traditional accommodation in cottages, but what is unique is the little pods out in CabinVille: the idea of glamping in a very cool modern cabin just was too good to pass on. This is how we arrived at the Big Pod.

The Big Pod is a two-level cabin where upstairs is a large sleeping and lounging area with beautiful views out to the tree line; the full wood cladding look gives it a wonderful hygge atmosphere and the kids were so excited at a family sleepover opportunity. Downstairs is a double bedroom, a bathroom with the most perfect tiling, and a very well appointed kitchen. Outside is a deck with loungers, space to dine out, and a braai (you’re in South Africa, of course there is a very well functioning barbecue area!).

There is a restaurant and a café on the grounds and breakfast is included in the pod bookings, but we decided to be in our little bubble. We had brought all the goodies for sundowners, a arm themed dinner (sausages and organic veggies) and croissants and baguettes from the best bakery in Johannesburg (if you know, you know, if not, message me!) for breakfast. It made for the most perfect isolated outing, and we barely crossed anyone during our stay.

Whilst the Big Pod feels very open to nature, it is beautifully built and quite warm in the evening, not to mention the fluffy duvets. This did not feel at all like camping and my mind was very far from sleeping bags and communal showers, thankfully. Considering I am not the biggest fan of sleeping in tents and sharing my bathroom space with creepy crawlies this was perfect.

There are lots of things to do on the farm, from exploring the walking and bike paths to going on a horse ride, visiting the farm animals… The Autumn weather is perfect to walk around, as it doesn’t get too hot and the colours are beautiful, especially in the afternoon. The next morning we had signed the munchkins off for a session at Acrobranch, also on the farm, and they had a blast with the zip lines and climbing features.

All in, we thoroughly enjoyed our stay at Rosemary Hill. It is perfect for a quick one-night getaway from the city, to break out from the routine and enjoy something different as a family.

With love, S.

Johannesburg, Uncategorized

Jacaranda hysteria is here

by s.a.b2 Comments on Jacaranda hysteria is here

Just like London goes through wisteria hysteria during Spring, if you live in Johannesburg then you know that October is the perfect month to enjoy the jacarandas in bloom, and many of us dedicate a full day to going through the beautiful purple canopied streets each year.

First, a little bit of history: Johannesburg is the largest man-made urban forest with over 10 million trees, but jacarandas are not exactly native to South Africa, they arrived in the late 1800s from South America and were planted along almost every new street being built; they are now considered an invasive species and it has become illegal to plant them, but you should be able to admire them for some years still given they have a 200-year lifespan. You can enjoy them in bloom from early October for about four to six weeks usually.

My own love story with jacarandas started in the early 90s, when we travelled to Zimbabwe and were absolutely mesmerized by the purple lined streets in Harare, and my mother brought back a few seed pods (yes, that’s my family, gardening smugglers since the 1980s…) that have now become two glorious jacaranda trees in our Casablanca home.

In my opinion, the most beautiful neighbourhoods to see the blooming jacarandas are Greenside, Westcliff, Melville (where they often contrast with bright pink bougainvillea), Melrose,… although to be honest the trees are dotted pretty much everywhere in the city. If you want full tree-lined roads, the following streets are where you want to go: Kent and Hume Roads in Dunkeld (they run East to West so this is the place for sunrise and sunset photos), Jameson, Reform and Victoria Avenues in Melrose, Bristol, Wantage, Griswold and Rutland Roads in Parkwood, and of course 4th in Melville for the contrast of the bougainvillea and jacarandas.

A perfect viewing day would involve a drive out to Houghton Ridge, Greenside, a breakfast or lunch at the Westcliff (also known as the Four Seasons hotel, they have the best view in the city and the terrace really comes into its own during Spring, I prefer the breakfast, before it gets too busy), and a stroll around Emmarentia park to enjoy the colours. With a bit of time, maybe a couple of stops on the way back to capture the afternoon light around Dunkeld.

Whilst the Johannesburg purple haze is stunning, Pretoria is the real Jacaranda City of South Africa. The city is built in a valley between two hills, making it easy to find a high point to admire the beautiful pattern made by the streets: jacarandas represent almost 20% of all trees in Pretoria, so the show is something well worth the drive from Johannesburg. Also, you can enjoy blooming jacarandas almost two weeks earlier here, seeing as the city is a little warmer than Jozi, which might also be why the purple looks a little more vivid. I love driving around Brooklyn, the trees here are really old and form a canopy that covers most of the street. Don’t miss out driving up to Groenkloof, where you can look down on most of Pretoria but also drive to Herbert Baker street to see the famously rare white jacarandas…

The trees are looking splendid this year, although some seem to be blooming either a little late or not at all, maybe they are taking a year off (I also wish I had taken 2020 off at this point). That said, it’s still a sight to be in awe of. Before I go, let me tell you what my favourite time for a jacaranda stroll is: the morning after a thunderstorm, when the floor is lined with a magical purple carpet, then you can catch me dreaming… See you there?

With love, S.

Johannesburg, Uncategorized

Johannesburg: Three family picnics

by s.a.bLeave a Comment on Johannesburg: Three family picnics

Here we are: we have all been on lockdown here in South Africa for well over 120 days now, the children have been homeschooled, some schools went back part time but if like me yours attend an international school the odds are they have now been on “vacation” for close to a month… By now we were all hoping that we would be allowed to travel, at least within the country, god knows we need it but also it would bring such a relief to the bleeding tourism industry, but sadly it’s not to be, and we are locked in our prohibition-ridden provinces for the foreseeable future… It’s no wonder then that so many of us are turning to some local options for days out, and whilst Gauteng (the province where we live) is no Western Cape or KZN, there are some options. Here are three we tried recently, for more ideas check out the Highlight on my Instagram stories called Johannesburg Staycation.

Dinokeng: Bring your own picnic, watch the game pass by

Dinokeng is a game reserve just outside of Pretoria, boasting most of the animals you’d find in a big park such as Kruger, and offering self-drives as well as lodge activities. We came for a self-drive one week-day morning early July, and whilst it doesn’t have the trappings of going on a luxury safari such as the ones we have become used to, spoiled as we are, it was lovely and we did enjoy being out and about in the middle of the animals.

You can bring your own picnic, as we did, and as it was a week day we had the picnic area pretty much to ourselves, or you can opt to lunch at one of the reserve lodges, and then have a ranger drive. I think being on a self-drive means you can come very early in the morning, and then do everything at your own pace, however neither Hubby Dearest nor I being professional trackers (who am I kidding we’re not even amateur trackers, I often mistake big rocks for rhinos!) we did miss out on big game such as elephants or lions, but then again that’s not really why we came. We wanted a day out and this very much filled the brief.

My recommendation: if you’re opting for a self drive avoid the week-ends as apparently it gets super crowded.

Modderfontein: On your door step, street food aplenty

If you want to stay within half an hour of North Jo’burg, then Modderfontein is the perfect outing, especially since it has started hosting some of the food trucks from the Fourways Farmers Market, which has still not re-opened sadly… so this is a good way to support businesses which have been struggling in the recent months, and have a fabulous time.

The reserve is quite big, with a few trails that are all quite flat and easy to walk, cycle or run (the children did a mix of running and walking, and hopping along, it was quite relaxed), and once you are done you can either get a coffee or a street food lunch from one of the stands. There is a large outdoor area with bales of hay and picnic tables that is perfect to enjoy the Winter sun whilst munching on burgers (it was Sunday, so cravings allowed, right?)

Remember this is super convenient for Jo’burgers so if you’re coming on the week-end (the food stalls are only here Saturday and Sunday for now) do try to arrive by 9:30 to avoid a long queue at the reserve entrance.

Ground, The Venue: Winelands vibe with a beautiful boxed picnic

Amidst the numerous venues on the wedding belt that is the Magaliesburg, many have remained shut, but some have embraced the challenge of lockdown by reinventing themselves. Ground The Venue has done so beautifully.

You start your day by hiking around or up the little koppie that stands just behind the farmland (little is an understatement, my legs still have tremors thinking of climbing that thing… but the view from the top was so worth it, not to mention the reward at the end). I did wear my new hiking monstrosities that day, and I am glad I did: whilst the hike is not hard per se, it is intense).

After about two and a half hours, you are back by the farm and, if you booked, make your way to a beautifully set table in the middle of the mini vineyard, giving you vibes of the Cape Winelands, especially if, like we did, you bring your own bottle of vino to enjoy the delicious picnic boxes… There is no rush to go home from there, the calm of the country surrounds are super chilled and even the children didn’t beg to move on as soon as they’d wolfed down their picnics…

Bookings are essential, especially if you want one of the tables, although you can also bring your own and enjoy the grounds. Do bring a hat and SPF, there isn’t a lot of shade around.

There you have it, three outings where you can take the little ones on a picnic within a short drive from Johannesburg… Which kid doesn’t love eating outdoors?

With love, S.

Africa, Johannesburg

Four family-friendly hikes around Johannesburg

by s.a.b1 Comment on Four family-friendly hikes around Johannesburg

Years ago, if you’d told me I would live in a country of super outdoorsy people, and I myself would regularly partake in the fun activity that is hiking, I would have scoffed at you and asked “Have we met?”… And yet here I am, a proudly adopted South African, and one who apparently goes hiking now, so much so that I ordered the fugliest shoes ever for our next outing (no apparently they don’t make pretty hiking shoes, only ugly ones, but they are khaki, at least)… Evidently the CoVid-19 lockdown and its travel restrictions have helped encourage me on this new, somewhat unnatural, path (see what I did there?): for the past 120 days we’ve been on various levels of lockdown and the last 45 days have allowed us to go outdoors, but only within our province of residence, and when you live in the smallest province in the country, that is more notable for its big cities and its oh-so passé wedding belt filled with pseudo boho barns, there is little to do besides research hiking grounds and trails that are family friendly to occupy most of your week-ends.

Best for scenery: Mountain Sanctuary

Ok, technically this is just outside of Gauteng, in the North West, but so close it almost counts as being in the same province.. Plus Mountain Sanctuary is truly one of the most beautiful hiking grounds in the region. This is a place we discovered with our ex-neighbours, back when we were free to travel and the children in our cluster were the closest of friends, free to mix and play together pretty much from dawn to dusk. Our friends have moved to Cape Town, our children miss sharing their twin houses with their best friends, and I miss the banter and fun we all had, everyday.

Coming to Mountain Sanctuary you’ll find beautiful trails (evidently) but also some gorgeous natural pools that the kids love jumping into, no matter the season. Following the natural pools is relatively easy along a kids-friendly trail, and you can make as many breaks as the little ones need, to swim or to snack. There is something for everyone here, from very short hikes to full-day ones, and this is a place that strives to offer freedom to its visitors rather than restricted trails.

You can book for day hikes, or stay overnight as well, and booking is essential these days as the number of visitors is restricted.

Best for variety of trails: Rustig

Rustig is a family-farm in the Magaliesburg, specialising in cattle and game, but it also offers small cottages and basic tented accommodation for overnight stays and a variety of trails around the Magaliesburg mountains. A big plus for me is the scenery and woods that cover most of the bottom section of the trails, and which the kids enjoyed thouroughly.

For some reason the reception staff insist on making any family with smaller children stick to the 3km trail… In my opinion that is a pretty useless recommendation, first because we ended up walking it within less than an hour, and then we scrambled to hook up to the second trail the wrong way up and that’s when we got a little confused, even though the trails are very well signed with very visible coloured markers every few meters (unless you’re seeing them from the back: having completed the baby trail in no time, we took the red trail up from the end, and ended up missing a turn and hiking up part of the blue one as well before we came back down to the red markers… all in a well-walked day then). So if you go, and the full of good intentions lady at reception tells you “we don’t allow small children on the 5km trail”, but you know your kids have done 15km before without any problems, just ignore her and take the red one at the turn…

If you do go with bigger kids, then by all means try one of the longer trails that goes all the way to the top of the rocky mountain, the sight is absolutely stunning, but some of the paths are quite close to the drop and lack a proper barrier, and that feels a little risky for this mama. Be mindful the trails are full of loose stones, and going down sometimes feels a little tricky but slowly gets the job done.

We went on a Sunday, it was minimally crowded, the entrance was very well organised with the number of visitors limited and booking essential, and we had a lovely picnic on the side of the trail, overlooking the vlei underneath the farm, and whilst it was one of the coldest days this winter the view and light was truly beautiful.

Best for an easy long trail: Cradlemoon

Another hike we did recently is the one at Cradlemoon. This is extremely convenient for Johannesburg dwellers, as it is literally just outside of the city. We came here with a family of friends and what a wonderful time the kids all had, after weeks of physical distancing from any other children their age, watching them happily catch up and happily chattering through the walk felt like utter bliss.

Cradlemoon is a lodge as well, with a beautiful river and lake and game you can pretty much walk by (we saw the zebras and the giraffes and pretty much walked into the hippos at some point, but they also have rhinos etc.) and there are a couple of trails to choose from, marked by ease. The one we did ended up quite long, over 10km, but overall flattish and easy to walk, so it was easy to have the kids walk together in the middle between the dads and the moms, giving us all plenty of opportunity to catch up on life in lockdown…

The week-ends get incredibly crowded during the week-end, a consequence of Cradlemoon’s convenience, and the restaurant operates a take-away that looks like a fish feeding frenzy at lunch, so we opted out and instead went home to some takeaway from one of our favourite fish eateries.

Best for climbers: Hennops

Like I said Rustig has beautiful rocky mountains but climbing up requires negotiating trails full of rolling rocks… I love climbing as I enjoy the feeling in my legs from pushing up and then the beautiful view from the top, but as an ex-dancer I don’t have the most solid of ankles and I prefer smoother grounds, and for this reason I really enjoyed Hennops, one of the first hikes we did when we moved to South Africa.

There are four distance trails, we opted for the 5km one, starting by crossing the suspension bridge over the little stream, then climbing through the prettiest highveld woods, where we met a few zonkeys (first time I ever saw any) before moving up through lower bush. That’s my only complaint about Hennops: most of the hike is up on top of the hill, meaning there is very little shadow, and although we stocked up on SPF and water it still feels a little much, so I would recommend getting here early to avoid the midday sun, even during winter.

There you have it, dear locked down friends, some ideas of hikes that are super easy and convenient for those of us with little ones. I hope you’ll share your own ideas in the comments. Happy level 3… I guess…

With love, S.