Pre-loved fashion goes around and comes around

I want to let you in on a little secret: I don’t buy all my clothes and accessories brand new, and I sell all the pieces I tire of via either my closet’s Insta account or through a consignment service… Slow, recyclable style is not only the price-savvy thing to do, it’s also better for the planet. When we buy second hand we are supporting the retail industry and keeping good quality clothing from being tossed into the trash and ending up in a land-fill.

I love recycling fashion, both as a buyer and as a seller: I think the idea of giving a piece you don’t use anymore a new home through reselling is fantastic (it frees up space in the closet for new goodies but also helps recoup a portion of the original price, which in some cases is very high), as is the concept of being able to get your hands on an almost new Chanel bag for a heavily discounted price compared to the boutique… What makes me so keen on this is of course the sustainability aspect of it, but also the economics: most designer brands increase their prices annually, and yet some pieces are classics, so if you’ve been wanting an iconic Mac by Burberry’s, you’re better off checking out resellers, especially because some fashionistas barely use their things and you can find some piece in like new condition everywhere (I may or may not have been known to sell some pieces with their tag still on…)

For clothes and accessories, I like consignment and resale shops, both brick and mortar and online, rather than thrift stores (that said, thrift stores are amazing for home accessories, crockery and the likes as well as popular everyday fashion brands like JCrew, Zara etc…), because you will find collections that are more curated, and better quality items, and there is often a verification process involved on the condition and authenticity, which is very reassuring. Evidently this means as a shopper you see higher prices, but would you rather pay a little more or get a rotten replica when you thought you were getting a Birkin for a bargain? One thing for sure: I will never buy a pre-loved designer item on Ebay, it’s filled with fakes and fraudsters.

How to buy pre-loved fashion

The first thing is to research the ballpark resale price, by looking up what the original selling price is, and then determining how much lower second hand pieces go for by researching the price for similar items… There is a host of websites where you can do this, and then you can use this information to decide if you should make an offer or just jump on the asking price. Remember, if you’re looking at a unicorn item, something that is a grail for most people, don’t expect a stupidly low offer to be accepted, plus it’s very rude in the resale market to make super low offers. Similarly, if you’re looking at a LV Speedy, the odds are there are loads in the second-hand market, so negotiate away…

It’s also important to manage your expectations. A lot of pre-loved clothes can be almost brand-new, as they might be worn only once or twice, and a lot of sellers are very strict about the condition they state on their sales, that said, the term pre-loved means the item has been used previously, or at least it’s lived in someone’s closet for a while, so expect some imperfections. And that is why you’re not paying retail price…

Not everything pre-loved is vintage… Vintage is something that is at least 25 years old in my book. Some vintage items are extremely valuable, like a dress from the 1930s or a first edition of a designer item, but some is just someone’s old slightly smelly stuff. I never buy vintage online, the condition is too difficult to assess, except if it’s jewellery.

Authenticity is a big deal when buying second hand items, so make sure you have done a good degree of research on the piece you’re buying (it’s easy to spot a fake label, but some super-fakes are really difficult to distinguish, so it helps to know small details like some classic bag shapes evolve slightly over the years, one flap versus two, the craftsmen markings change, and some colours are from very specific seasons etc). If you’re unsure, ask for more pictures, and if you still don’t know, then it’s best to sit it out. It helps to shop from reputable sellers, I never buy expensive pieces except from sellers I trust or through shops where the authentication of the item is part of the process.

If you’re looking for something specific it’s good to know some sellers who regularly trade in the type of piece you’re after and to regularly follow (ahem stalk…) them. Amongst a few others, I love Julia Rose Boston and Coco Approved for Chanel bags, Yoogi’s Closet for Hermès bags and others, and Luxury-Scarves is the place to go if you’re hunting for a special scarf. I recently discovered Kern-1, which specialises in Chanel jackets that get beautifully conditioned and packaged before being sent to their new owner, and can’t wait until my grail comes up there so I can order it… For everything in between, I like buying on Vestiaire Collective although I’ve never sold through them, I hear they charge a hefty fee. In Johannesburg, I can’t recommend SnobSwop enough, Barb knows her fashion stuff and is an amazing business person and she seems to be the recipient of many local fashionistas’ closet overflows.

How to sell your no longer loved goodies

Research is key for sellers as well, who should know not to list something at a certain price if someone else has the same item for sale at half the price… Pricing an item right is key if you want to sell it. There are a few items that will retain their value, but I can count them on the fingers of one hand, and they don’t include Marc Jacobs totes or dad sneakers (see, you shouldn’t have bought them in the first place), and everything else needs to sell at a significant discount, especially if the condition is not great.

Know whether your item will be in demand by following trends and resale websites, then pick your sale channel. I usually prefer to start on my Instagram account for my closet (it’s here, if you’re curious) because I have a good following since the massive closet purge I did before leaving London… that was a major clean-up where I let go of a lot of the expensive pieces I used as an investment banker and that I wouldn’t need in my new life in South Africa. I also love to take things to Barb at SnobSwop to sell directly in her shop.

Taking good clear pictures and in your description be extremely clear and honest about the condition of the item, in particular of the signs of use is key. I can’t stress this enough. You will get upset customers and people will return items if you don’t disclose everything. In fact some people will even try to blame you for damage that happens after the item it’s been in their hand so retain the pictures until after you’ve sent the pieces (yes, I am speaking from experience, I was happy to still have the photos…) Once an item is sold make sure you ship it asap and if you can’t, tell your buyer when to expect the item; I always use tracked shipments, again, noone wants things to go sour because “the package went missing”.

Accept that some pieces are not worth the effort of trying to resale, and they are better suited for charity: in South Africa poverty is rampant, and people will gladly accept pre-owned clothing, so I don’t even think twice when considering the clothes my children have outgrown or everyday high street clothes I don’t use anymore, they go to a creche we support in a local township, or to our housekeeper, who then distributes on to people she knows.

There you have it, my guide to pre-loved fashion… For sure you don’t get the same type of luxurious experience as through the retail, the packaging may not be as beautiful (although some resellers go the extra mile) but you’ll make friends, get to know your sellers and your buyers, and give a new life to pieces that will make you happy for a few years or a lifetime…

With love, S.